Trompe-l’oeil FurShown last July at Palais Brongniart, Fendi Couture extended the concept of fur and applied precious avant-garde techniques to materials, with forays into the Orphic Cubism movement born in 1910 in France and forerunner of futurism
The collection drops the name Fendi Fourrure to become Fendi Couture: a way, explained Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi, to reaffirm that the brand is also much more than fur.
Statuesque silhouettes and soft floating items alternated on the catwalks, in refined fabrics such as frayed organza and fringed chiffon that transform into trompe l'oeil surfaces, inlaid cashmere, shaved mink and shearling were combined to make very light gyronny-like chevrons, while ermine alternated nonchalantly with sequins and the most striking coat is made with narrow strips of shaved mink cut by hand and re-stitched.
The playful concept of “is it real or pretend” seems to be one of the stylistic features of this Fendi collection, in which the materials and workmanship take over: materials that mix and blend, fur mosaics that complement impalpable fabrics, tulle combined with latex, feathers and tiny silver fringes that overlap in a frenzy of precious details.
The opening items on the catwalk are of great impact, featuring a rainbow of colours, which during the show soften into shades of apricot, lavender and sorbet pink.
Rich in geometric motifs and bright abstractions directly influenced by František Kupka and Robert Delaunay, the collection displays a wonderful artistic expression – also seen in the extraordinary circular motifs that feature on many coats. The precious mixtures, mingling and overlapping also make it more difficult for experts to understand whether they were looking at fur or not, but in front of such boundless poetic mastery in the processing of materials this is not really important. With an eye looking to the past and the door always open to innovation.